Not reviews and not rankings. The six-seat counter, the one dish done perfectly, and the meals that turned out to be about everything except the food.
The best meals are never really about the food.
One thing, done great, and the drive it took to get there.
The best meal I had in Tokyo came from a place with six seats and a chef who had, from the look of him, been making...
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Where we eat and why it matters. From Monterey counters to Tokyo omakase, the meals worth planning a trip around.
Where we eat and why it matters. From Monterey counters to Tokyo omakase, the meals worth planning a trip around.
I was in Tokyo on a once-in-a-lifetime trip, walking around Shibuya jet-lagged and hunting for coffee, when a sign stopped me. Nothing flashy. Just enough to make me turn my head. And behind the glass, parked inside like it had every right to be there, sat a widebody Volkswagen Golf with its fenders flared out … Read more
The best meal I had in Tokyo came from a place with six seats and a chef who had, from the look of him, been making the same dish for longer than I have been alive. No menu to speak of. No decor to mention. Just one thing, done so well it reorganized my idea … Read more
For a couple of months after I lost my job, I mostly sat with the quiet. Not the peaceful kind. The other kind, the one that fills a room after the thing that gave your days a shape just disappears. One week I had meetings and deadlines and a reason to open the laptop before … Read more
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